Diamond Education

What is a Diamond ?

It was not until the discovery of the “dry diggings” at Kimberley in 1870, coupled with the determination of the miners to excavate every inch of their dearly bought claims that it became clear that diamonds came from below and not from above. It was also clear that diamond was invariably associated with one particular type of rock and that this rock was only to be found in clearly delineated areas. Since the rock and the diamonds persisted at depth, it was soon suggested that these “pipes” were volcanic in nature and that diamonds had been formed out of carbon under intense heat and pressure deep in the bowels of the earth. They had been forced toward the surface when those long-extinct volcanoes had erupted millions of years ago. This strange diamond-bearing rock, soon to be called Kimberlite was assumed to be nothing more than solidified lava. But as mining progressed at Kimberley it was discovered that the pipes were not great volcanic funnels plunging into the earth’s core.

A great deal has since been learned from the making of synthetic diamonds and perhaps the most widely accepted current theory is that since diamond forms at pressures and temperatures between 0.5 million pounds per square inch, the formation must have taken place at depths of at least 120 miles, chemical studies pointed to the ultra-basic rock peridotite in its molten form as the most likely to have provided the right conditions for the creation of diamond from carbon. The molten of crystallization is assumed to have been long and slow and the theory goes that conditions remained stable for a considerable period as a result of the pressure of carbon dioxide gas below became too great, the balance was changed and the diamond-bearing magma was driven explosively towards the surface. On the way, it picked up other rocks and minerals forming themselves into the “geological plum pudding” that we now call Kimberlite, eventually erupting through the surface of the earth and solidifying.

Diamond Cutting

Processes done on rough diamonds or gems:

There are five processes used in the creation of a polished gem from the rough:

1. Cleaving

Splitting a stone along the cleavage plane. The art of the cleaner has always been regarded as the greatest talent in the diamond cutting industry.

2. Sawing

Dividing a crystal by using a diamond saw. Clean regular octahedral are normally divided by sawing. The diamond cutter is said to “saw grain” that is he cuts in a non-cleaving direction.

3. Bruting

Shaping a diamond by removing part of it by rubbing against another diamond. The next step is to shape the sawn or cleaved stone into a circular outline. The result of this very skilled operation should be a diamond with a perfectly rounded girdle set exactly parallel to the table. The diamond used as a tool is usually itself a rough and will be bruited in its turn.

4. Grinding or Blocking

Making a flat surface by holding the crystal against a rotating wheel applied with diamond powder. First he grinds the table of the diamond and then a crown or bezel facet between the girdle and the table. The stone is then turned over and four pavilion facets are ground below the girdle. These eight facets are followed by four more on the crown and four more on the pavilion.

5. Brillianteering or Polishing

Preparing the finished gem by a more refined application of grinding techniques. The brillianteerer completes the whole operation by adding the remaining forty facets. First he cuts eight star facets where the crown facets meet the table and then 16 girdle facets where they meet the girdle. Finally he cuts two long facets called halves into each of the pavilion facets. All the facets are then polished.

Diamond Shapes

Diamonds come in a variety of shapes. Do not confuse cut with shape, cut is what determines how well-cut your diamond is, whereas diamond shape is the shape it was cut into.

Virtually all round diamonds are brilliant-cut, meaning they have 57facets. The demand for round diamonds is very high, and the yield is relatively low. Because more of the rough stone is lost in the cutting of a round diamond, the cost of each carat retained is higher.

Oval cut are a modified brilliant-cut(like virtually all round cuts). Because the two shapes possess a similar fire and brilliance, the oval is an ideal choice for a customer who likes the look of a round diamond, but wants something more unique. Oval diamonds have the added advantage of an elongated shape, which can create the illusion of greater size. The slender shape can also make the finger of the wearer appear longer and slimmer, an effect often desired.

A more traditional shape is in squire or rectangle shape with eight angles. The emerald is not as popular as it used as it once was, but has old-world elegance to it. The unique look of the emerald cut diamond is created by the step cuts of its pavilion and its large, open table. Instead of the sparkle of a brilliant-cut, emerald cut diamonds produce a hall-of-mirrors effect, with the interplay of light and dark planes. While less fiery, the long lines and dramatic flashes of light give the emerald cut an elegant appeal. The shape was originally developed for the cutting of emeralds, thus the name Emerald cut diamonds varies from nearly square to a narrow rectangle.
The classic emerald cut diamond has a length to width ratio of around 1.50. If you prefer the look of the square emerald cut diamond, be sure to consider the asscher cut as well (which has a very similar appearance, and is defined by GIA as a square cut emerald). Every Lumera Diamond includes precise measurements, as well as the length to width ratio, so you know the exact shape of the emerald cut diamond you are considering

The cushion cut diamond once referred to as old mine cut) combines a square cut with rounded corners, much like a pillow (hence the name). This classic cut has been around for almost 200 years, and for the first century of its existence was the most popular diamond shape (similar to round cut today). Until the early 20th century, the cushion cut diamond was the de facto diamond shape.
Traditional cushion cut diamonds return light in a chunkier pattern than modern cuts. Combined with the enlarged culet (which was considered desirable for the pattern created when viewed through the table), this created a distinctive look that is prized today among dealers in antique diamonds.
Partially based on cut research initiated by Marcel Tolkowsky in the 1920s, refinements to cushion cut diamonds over time, have led to a resurgence in popularity. Many buyers are attracted to the antique feel combined with modern performance offered by the cushion cut.

The modified brilliant-cut heart-shaped diamond is a unique and unmistakable symbol of love. Heart-shaped diamonds are very popular in solitaire pendants as well as rings. When choosing a heart, symmetry is a very important characteristic, since it is critical that the two halves of the heart are identical. The cleft (between the two lobes) should be sharp and distinct, and the wings (the sides as they curve down to the point) should have a very slightly rounded shape.
Heart-shaped diamonds of less than .50 carats may not be a good choice, as the heart shape is more difficult to perceive in smaller diamonds, especially after they are set in prongs. For smaller hearts, a bezel or three-prong setting (one prong on each lobe, one prong at the point) will better preserve the heart shape outline of the diamond after it is set.
Partially based on cut research initiated by Marcel Tolkowsky in the 1920s, refinements to cushion cut diamonds over time, have led to a resurgence in popularity. Many buyers are attracted to the antique feel combined with the modern performance offered by the cushion cut.

A diamond or gemstone that is cut in a modification of the brilliant cut so that the girdle is boat-shaped with a hexagonal table surrounded on the crown by 32 trapezium shaped and triangular facets. Like the emerald, the marquise is a traditional shape. This is probably the fourth most popular shape behind the round, princess and oval. Because marquise diamonds are long and narrow, they can also create the illusion of greater size. Carat for carat, the marquise diamond has one of the largest crown surface areas of any diamond shape, making it a good choice when trying to maximize the perceived size of a diamond. Like the oval diamond, the marquise cut diamond’s elongated shape can make the finger of the wearer appear longer and slimmer.

A pear-shaped diamond is a combination of a round and a marquise shape, with a tapered point on one end. The diamond is always worn with the narrow end pointing toward the hand of the wearer. Like marquise and oval cuts, the pear-shaped diamond comes in a variety of slim to wide cuts and has the added benefit of making the wearer’s fingers appear longer and slimmer.
Ideally, a pear-shaped diamond should possess excellent or very good symmetry. The point should line up with the apex of the rounded end. The shoulders and wings (the upper and lower curves on the right and left side of the diamond) should form a uniform, symmetrical curves, with no straight edges. The rounded top should not appear narrow or squat but like a semi-circle. In a misguided effort to add weight to a diamond (by incorporating more of the rough stone in the final cut) cutters may give the diamond added girth near the point or top, giving the diamond a squared off or squatty appearance.

The modern asscher cut diamond is similar to a square emerald cut, usually with larger step facets, a higher crown, and a smaller table. This combination often produces more brilliance than the emerald cut. A well cut asscher will appear to have concentric squares as you look down through the table, the result of proper positioning of the pavilion facets underneath. Like the emerald cut, the asscher cut has cropped corners; however, because an asscher is square, the cropped corners give the asscher cut a somewhat octagonal shape. Once mounted in a four prong setting, the diamond maintains its unique shape within a square silhouette.

Diamond buyers Guide

How to Valuate a Diamond –

Before buying a diamond the knowledge of 5-C’s (Cut, Color, Carat, Clarity & Certificate) is the most common guide used for buying and selling diamonds. As a collectible, one diamond may appeal to one person and not to another. It is important that you choose a diamond that satisfies your taste.

The quality of a diamond is defined by means of the 4C’s: Carat (Weight), Clarity, Colour and Cut. These characteristics do not only determine the stone’s quality, they can also be very useful in identifying the diamond, since every diamond is unique.

But, before to know more about all the C’s you have to know one more ‘C’- Cost (Budget).

When looking to purchase a diamond, first determine what your price ranges. Stay away from companies that try to tell you what your cost should be based on i.e., monthly income. Your cost should be based solely on what you feel comfortable with. Most companies will allow you to upgrade your diamond in the future and give you a full credit for your original purchase.

One commonly asked question is how to figure the prices per carat of diamonds. The price of a diamond will reflect rarity factors as well as the overhead expenses of the seller. Some rarity factors depend on size (larger is rarer than smaller), clarity (fewer imperfections are more uncommon), colour (colourless is less frequent), and cut (good proportioning gives greater brilliance). Each of these factors is discussed below.

Cut :

You have to decide what shape of Diamond you want to purchase? The most common shape is round or RBC (round brilliant-cut). Others are Marquise, Pear, Baguette, Princess, Emerald, Oval, Radiant etc. 

The cut of a diamond is very important in determining the beauty of the stone. The cut comprises of the depth, width, various angles and proportion. A round diamond has 57 facets (each cutting part called ‘facet’ & with individual name). The proportions and finish grade of a diamond establish the quality of the cut. A good finish grade testifies to the workmanship of the diamond polisher. It refers to the symmetry of the facets and their overall finish. The best cut diamonds also have the right proportions between the different parts of the diamond. When the cuts are placed precisely within certain mathematically calculated angle, light that enters the diamond will be reflected back out of the top in a brilliant prismatic result. If these proportions are not optimal, the fire and brilliancy of the diamond are affected, and undesirable visual effects might occur.


Describes the amount of colour the diamond contains. This can range from colourless to yellow with slight tints of yellow, grey or brown. Colours can also range from intense yellow to brown.The intensity can vary from nearly colourless, which is preferable, to decidedly yellow. The value of a white stone is higher than that of a yellowish stone. However, diamonds can also have a distinct orange, brown, pink, green or blue colour. These colour diamonds can be extremely valuable. If there are natural red, blue or green colours in diamond they more valuable than white.

Be aware!

It is possible to influence the colour by irradiation treatment followed by heat treatment. This method is not recommended for two reasons. The first is the risk involved with exposure to irradiated objects. The second is the risk of colour change over time. All colour treated diamonds must be disclosed as such prior to sale.

Contrary to popular belief, a diamond appears not only in the typical colorless or near colorless form, but actually varies from “white” to a “light yellow” color. Graded on an alphabetical scale, the color grade begins at D and ends at Z. However, fancy colored diamonds are graded on a completely different scale.

Clarity :

The clarity of a diamond is determined by the number, size, brightness and location of the
internal and external characteristics, important structure phenomena and transparency. Generally speaking, mainly the inclusions in the stone affect the clarity. Obviously, the fewer inclusions or structure phenomena the stone displays, the higher the quality of the diamond.

FLFlawlessFree from all inclusions or blemishes under 10x.
IFInternally FlawlessNo inclusions visible at 10x magnification.
VVS-1Very-Very Slightly Included -1Inclusions those are extremely difficult to locate under 10x.
VVS-2Very-Very Slightly Included -2Inclusions those are very difficult to locate under 10x.
VS-1Very Slightly Included -1Minor inclusions that are difficult to locate under 10x.
VS-2Very Slightly Included -2Minor inclusions those are somewhat difficult to locate under 10x.
SI-1Slightly Included -1Noticeable inclusions those are easy to locate under 10x.
SI-2Slightly Included -2Noticeable inclusion those are very easy to locate under 10x.
I-1Included -1Obvious inclusions. Somewhat easy to locate with the unaided eye.
I-2Included -2Obvious inclusions. Easy to locate with the unaided eye.
I-3Included 23Obvious inclusions. Very easy to locate.


Carat refers to the weight of a diamond. Carat is the 5th part of a gram. A carat is further subdivided in 100 cents (sometimes called – points). The value of diamond is depends on its size. The bigger diamond is more valuable as smaller pieces.

Certificate – The 5th ‘C”

Another important thing to consider in purchasing or selling a diamond is the diamond certificate or grading report. It is a vital document that proves the authenticity and quality of the diamond being bought or sold. A highly trained diamond grader evaluates and specifies the attributes of the diamond. Most people don’t know 4‘C’s of diamonds. The Certificate provides genuine details of a diamond issued by any Neutral Organisation called Lab.

A diamond that is certified by a reputed laboratory provides a person confidence, feeling of security & relaxed mind to purchase a Diamond or Jewellery.  Not only retailers can establish themselves as trustworthy & reliable trader; but it protects consumer from misleading & honest Jewellers from unfair competition.

At any laboratory each diamond is analyzed by well experienced & skilled diamond graders with latest equipment’s. And as a result of it, each report given gets a touch of accuracy. Detailed description of every diamond like proportion, symmetry & polish, grading of cut, analysis & grading of clarity & colour are precisely described in the report.


All 4C’s are taken into consideration at the time of diamond valuation. A diamond with good Cut, Colour, Clarity and Carat weight is the most critical factor in determining the price. Apart from the scarcity of the bigger stones is that while fashion and local taste may affect the desirability of colour and the extreme rarity of the truly flawless diamond increases the demand for slightly less perfect stones, weight remains the only constant and easily calculable factor under the grading systems most commonly used today. There is one advantage in seeing a diamond in its setting and that is the setting itself may provide a value due to the nature of the stone.

Diamond Care

Diamond – Care

Everyone wear different types of ornaments. They are made from precious and valuable materials like Gold, Silver, Platinum, Diamonds and Gemstones etc. Jewellery is a status symbol of today’s world. Owning jewellery is notonly important, but care of jewellery is also is a necessary part of owning it. By using such techniques you can make your jewellery brighten and durable forever. Tips given below will help you to clean and care for your valuable jewelry so that their beauty last long.

Everyone wear different types of ornaments. They are made from precious and valuable materials like Gold, Silver, Platinum, Diamonds and Gemstones etc. Jewellery is a status symbol of today’s world. Owning jewellery is notonly important, but care of jewellery is also is a necessary part of owning it. By using such techniques you can make your jewellery brighten and durable forever. Tips given below will help you to clean and care for your valuable jewelry so that their beauty last long.


Diamonds are the most durable & hardest element on the earth. Its fiery brilliancy always captures eyes. It is most valuable thing like gold. Therefore diamonds are not only a jewel set in a piece of jewellery; they are an investment and need to be treated as such. With appropriate care, they can last forever Powders, soaps, lotions and even the oil from your skin will create a film on diamonds; by using in daily wear many types of dust gathered on it; however keeping your diamond jewellery in fantastic condition only requires simple continual maintenance. This simple maintenance will be rewarded with beautiful, long-lasting jewellery. It is essential that you aware of how to care and clean for your jewellery.

How to care for your diamonds:

  • It is essential to attempt to protect the diamonds in your jewellery as well as the gold, from sharp blows, harmful chemicals, sunlight and extreme temperatures.
  • This is why if you can it is a good idea to remove rings when working with your hands, such as gardening or heavy housework.
  • Don’t wear your diamond when you are playing sports or doing other rough work.
  • The only material that can break a diamond is another diamond so if you are not wearing your diamond jewellery you should store each item of jewellery separately to prevent scratching with other pieces as well as breaking. Place them in a small plastic bag, a pouch or wrap in tissue paper.
  • Don’t let your diamond come in contact with strong chlorine bleach. It won’t hurt the diamond, but it can pit or discolour the mounting.
  • Do see your jeweller at least once a year to have your precious jewellery checked for loose prongs and any signs of wear.
  • To maintain the sparkle of your diamond jewellery it is a good idea to carefully wipe your diamond jewellery with jewellery cleaning cloth or any other soft cloth after each wearing to remove oils and dust.
  • The easiest way to ensure you diamond jewellery remains sparkling with brilliance is to clean your diamonds on a regular basis. The most eye catching part of a diamond is its sparkle no matter whether it is set in a ring, bracelet, necklace, earrings or a pendant.
  • To clean your diamond jewellery the popular methods which are commonly used are given below…

By detergent: Prepare a small bowl of warm suds with any kind of mild liquid detergent. Brush the jewellery with a small soft brush creating lather. Place the piece on a wire strainer and rinse with warm water. Then dry with a soft lint free cloth.

By cold water: Mix a small bowl of solution with 5 parts water to 1 part household ammonia. Soak the item for several minutes, lift the item out of the solution and tap gently around the item with a small soft brush. Rinse the item in the solution again and drain on a piece of tissue paper.

Quick-Dip Method: Buy liquid jewellery cleaner; be careful to choose the cleaner which is best for your diamonds. Read the label carefully and follow the instructions. Be careful not to touch your clean diamonds with your fingers, handle the piece by its edges.

If you do not wish to clean your own diamond jewellery you can always take your diamond jewellery to your local jeweller to be cleaned.

Jewellery Care:

How to care Jewellery?

To care your jewellery remembers this…

  • Don’t wear your jewellery 24 hours a day; take it off when you get home or at least at night.
  • Keep jewellery carefully stored and separated as different elements can damage each other.
  • When you are not wearing chains keep them fastened so they don’t get tinged.
  • When you are doing jobs around the house, gardening, DIY etc. remove your jewellery, when cleaning the kitchen floor or working in the hut.
  • Do not store jewellery next to heating vent, window sill, or in the car.
  • Store jewellery away from sunlight. The sun may fade some gemstones.
  • Always store bead necklaces strung on silk (such as lapis, pearls, etc.) flat because silk stretches over time.
  • Jewellery can also damage by shopping trolleys, dog leads, door handles, handbrakes and while washing.
  • Certain chemicals can harm your precious items; we use some of them so often we don’t think of them as chemicals. Hairspray, perfume, nail-polish remover, even perspiration can all affects jewellery. If you are going to use hairspray or other cosmetics, use them first and give them a chance to dry before putting on your jewellery.
  • Chlorine is particularly damaging, so if you are going swimming leave your jewellery locked in the safe at home.
  • Lay the jewellery in the locker without folding; it can weaken at the joints. Avoid stacking; if you must, layer with cotton used to fill pillows; it works better than “doctor’s” cotton.
  • If in any doubt about the care, repair or valuation of your jewellery ask the advice of a professional.

How to Clean Jewellery?

  • Get your jewellery cleaned and checked at least annually by genuine person or vendor.
  • Gently rub gold and silver jewellery with a soft, clean cloth to maximize the shine.
  • Jewellery set with gems can be brought to life by careful cleaning with a soft brush and soapy water, or with a proprietary jewellery cleaning solution.
  • Don’t use any form of chemical or an ultrasonic cleaner by yourself, it should be harmful for your jewellery.
  • If your jewellery in not Kundan or Jadau, Pearl or Thread jewellery then you have to use the mixture of normal detergent powder, turmeric powder in water and boil it with only gold jewellery, for diamond jewellery don’t use turmeric.
  • Do not try to get threaded pearl or bead jewellery wet and only wet antique jewellery after specialist advice, otherwise you could damage it.
  • Don’t use abrasive cleaners on jewellery.
  • You can use silver ‘dip’ type cleaners on most silver jewellery – but rinse and dry them thoroughly.
  • Don’t use silver ‘dip’ type cleaning solutions on gold jewellery, only special jewellery cleaners can be used.

Allergic Reaction of Jewellery:

Some of people have complained for an allergic reaction when wearing jewellery. Often heard was the phrase – I am allergic to gold. This is not the case, Gold is a noble metal, and it is not possible to be any types of allergic to it. The allergy stems from a reaction to other alloys used. Pure gold is too soft to make jewellery and there for its alloying with other metals to make hard e.g. in 18 karat jewellery – 6 karat is other metal (total 24 which would be pure). Most often the allergy comes from nickel, which was used for alloying purpose. The above explanation also covers allergic reaction to sterling silver.

Pearl Care:

Cultured pearls are formed inside oysters. Pearls are one of the nature’s most precious and beautiful elements and known as an organic gem. Although they are beautiful, they are particularly susceptible to damage. For this reason you should treat cultured pearls with great care.

The most important way to care for your valuable pearls is “Putting your pearl jewellery on as the last thing when you have applied make up, lotions, perfume and hair sprays, never before. Don’t spray your perfume or use any lotion on the neck area where the pearl will set. Also avoid touching it when you have just applied hand cream. Likewise make pearl jewellery the first thing you remove after night out, before you clean your face & neck or use any cream.”

How to Care Pearl?

  • Pearl jewellery cannot be haphazardly thrown in with the other jewellery in your armoire. Pearls have a softer surface compared to other jewellery. In fact, pearls are located in the lowest rung when it comes to hardness with diamonds being at the top. So, if you throw your pearls with other jewellery that contains sapphires, rubies, emeralds, etc. or even gold links that have sharp edges on them, you are endangering your pearls from getting scratched or damaged.
  • The best thing to do is to put the pearls in a separate container. If you do not have the luxury, the time or the space to store your jewels separately, then you could get inexpensive felt or velvet pouches that you can buy in craft and fabric stores. Keep your pearls in these pouches so that they do not get scratched by harder gemstones.
  • Cosmetics including perfume and hairspray should be applied before you put on any cultured pearl jewellery, otherwise the nacre or skin of pearl, can become permanently damaged.
  • Wipe pearls with a soft dry cloth after wearing to remove perfume, hairspray and anything else likely to damage them.
  • Don’t use any form of chemicals, as they are most likely to damage the cultured pearls.
  • Cultured pearls are soft and any rough treatment such as carrying in a handbag or putting them loose in a jewellery box may also damage them. Wrap them in acid-free tissue for protection.
  • Every day wear and the natural constituents of your skin can have a detrimental effect on the silk used to thread your cultured pearls.
  • Besides, never keep pearls in the pink or red paper that jewellers often wrap things in- a bead of sweat or a drop of water can end up discolouring the pearls.
  • Do check your pearl jewellery once in a year by any authorized person.

How to Clean Pearl:

There are a many types of jewellery cleaners that are available in the market. DON’T usethem with your pearls. Again, as said, pearls have a softer & sensitive cover in comparison to other gems. Commercial jewellery cleaners can damage the surface of your pearls and cause them to lose their lustre and beauty.

When you need to clean your pearls, the best thing to do is to clean them with a dilute solution of soap and water. This will help remove the dirt and still keep your pearls intact. For better results, use warm water when cleaning them and soak them for at least 10 minutes. Don’t leave them on too long because it can also damage the pearl and make it loose its lustre.

Another tip that will keep the pearl clean and help it keep its shine longer is to put on your perfume first before putting on the pearl. This way, you do not get any of the oil and the alcohol from the perfume directly on the pearls.

Remember to making it at last- Pearls need to be restrung at least every year or when the string they are attached to becomes frayed. Re-stringing pearls help avoid a fiasco of having your pearls rain down all over your floor with you getting on your knees looking for each individual piece. Restringing can be done by a professional; your local jeweler can probably do the job for you.

Jadau Care or Kundan Care:

Kundan jewelry requires special attention because of the extensive work-man ship involved in crafting each product. The following precautions are suggested to take care of your beautiful Kundan jewellery.

  • Kundan in particular, may react to the metals in a jewellery box. Slip it into zip-lock bags or wrap in soft cloth or in aluminium foil to store its sign.
  • If space is an issue, place the jewellery in between layers of cotton wool and seal it in a good plastic bag.
  • Never put pressure or weight on jewellery, especially Jadau.
  • Do not spray perfume, body spray, dye or any other chemicals on any part of Kundan jewellery.
  • Keep a pouch of desiccant with the piece to protect it from tarnishing due to excessive humidity.
  • Keep the jewellery away from water or dampness. Water tends to blacken the stone or uncut diamonds and enamel.
  • Do not use damp cloth or water or any other liquid or soapy solution. If any part of your Kundan jewellery darkens, then use an eraser (the one used for erasing pencil marks) on the darkened portion. Do not even use plain cloth to clean the blackened portion of Kundan. If the blackness is not removed, then take it to the nearest jewellery shop for help.
  • Handle the silk chord used to adjust the length of the necklace with care. Never wet the chord as it causes the Zari in it to discolour.

Silver Care:

Unlike the other precious metals, silver will tarnish because of a reaction to elements in the air. However, the metal does not deteriorate. You can remove the black film with silver polish. The most common way to avoid tarnish is to wear your jewellery regularly.

  • Silver jewellery should always be cleaned with a soft cotton or flannel cloth. Synthetic materials can cause scratching. You can also purchase a silver cleaning cloth, which has anti-tarnish ingredients, and keep it inside your jewellery box for quick cleaning. You can also use a child’s toothbrush to get into intricate scrollwork or patterns for quick cleaning of silver, such as removing ma.

Cleaning Silver:

These cleaning tips and hints are for the general public interested in maintaining the majority of personal silver, items that are silver or gold plated need the same type of care. Remember that the easiest way to keep your silver cleaning to a minimum is to store it properly.

  • If there is no tarnish on your silver jewellery, use a phosphate-free detergent to clean it frequently. Silver that is used then gently washed and dried immediately, will require seldom tarnish removal.
  • When first noticed (usually a yellowish-brownish tint), tarnish is easily removed. It becomes increasingly difficult to remove as it eventually turns to black. Frequent light cleanings, (washing the object with a phosphate-free detergent), then drying with a soft cloth is better than waiting until the tarnish gets so difficult to remove that more abrasive polishes would be needed.
  • When polishing or drying always use a clean, soft cotton cloth.
  • Don’t use Toothpaste, ever, as silver polish, many toothpastes ingredients which even in trace amounts may cause serious damage. Only use silver polishes.

Don’t use polishes that have dried-up (the abrasive particles are now too concentrated and will harm your silver), don’t usesteel wool, Scotch-Brite™ or any type of scouring pads (too abrasive), or chemical dips (too toxic).

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